Composting Toilet
A urine-diverting composting toilet widely used in cabins and vans: separating liquids and solids keeps odor down and emptying simple.
Researched, not personally tested

A planning-level estimate of the tank and drainfield your place needs, from bedrooms and soil. The permit office has the final word, but you'll walk in knowing the shape of it.
A real perc test decides this. If you're buying land, make the sale contingent on one, a failed perc changes everything about a property.
This calculator needs JavaScript turned on. With it off, the guide below walks through the math by hand.
Design flow = bedrooms x 150 gal/day, x 0.6 if greywater only. Tank = 1,000 gal through 3 bedrooms, plus 250 gal per bedroom above 3. Drainfield area = design flow / soil application rate (1.2 sandy, 0.8 loam, 0.45 silty/clay loam, 0.2 heavy clay, in gal per sq ft per day). Trench length = area / 3 ft width, split into runs of 100 ft or less.
A 3-bedroom full septic on loam: 450 gal/day design flow, a 1,000 gallon tank, 563 sq ft of trench bottom, and about 188 linear feet of trench in 2 runs.
| Case | Inputs | Expected output |
|---|---|---|
| SEP-001 | 3 bedrooms, loam (0.8 gal/sq ft/day), full wastewater | Design flow 450 gal/day; tank 1,000 gal; drainfield ~563 sq ft -> ~188 ft of 3 ft trench in 2 runs |
| SEP-002 | 2 bedrooms, composting toilet (greywater only), sandy (1.2) | Design flow 180 gal/day; drainfield ~150 sq ft -> ~50 ft of trench |
Formula version 1.0, in effect since 2026-08-25. Changes to formulas or assumptions bump this version and are listed in the corrections log.
These are the exact numbers the calculator on this page runs, stated so you can check them. Planning estimates, not engineering; sizing that matters gets confirmed by a professional against local conditions and code. Spotted a problem with the method? Tell me.
Want the reasoning, not just the number? Lesson 9: Sewage, greywater, and the toilet question in the free course walks through it, and the system planner carries the answer into a whole design.
Nothing decides whether a piece of rural land is buildable quite like the septic question, and nothing on a homestead budget swings wider: the same house needs a $6,000 conventional system on good soil or a $30,000 engineered mound on bad soil. This calculator gives you the planning-level shape of the system, design flow, tank, and drainfield, so you can walk into the permit office, or a land purchase, knowing roughly what you are in for.
Nearly every state sizes septic by bedroom count at 120 to 150 gallons per day each, because houses outlive their owners and bedrooms are the proxy for maximum occupancy. The tank is the easy part, 1,000 gallons minimum almost everywhere, stepping up with bedrooms; its job is to settle solids and let the field do the real work. The tank is rarely the cost problem. The soil is.
The drainfield's size comes from dividing daily flow by the soil's application rate, how many gallons a square foot of your soil can accept per day. Sandy loam accepting 1.2 gallons might need a 375 square foot field for a three-bedroom house; heavy clay accepting 0.2 needs over 2,000, if it qualifies at all. That single soil property moves the footprint by a factor of six, which is why the perc test, not the acreage, is what makes land "buildable."
If you are shopping for land, make the purchase contingent on a satisfactory perc or site evaluation. A failed perc does not always kill a build, but the alternatives, mounds, pretreatment units, engineered pads, all start around double the conventional price and go up. This is checked before you fall in love with the view, and the Land & Real Estate archive covers the other diligence that belongs in the same trip.
Pair a composting toilet with a greywater-only system and the design flow drops roughly 40 percent, shrinking the field and sometimes shifting the permit into a simpler category. More states allow this every year, but the rules genuinely vary from "encouraged" to "not recognized," so the greywater estimate here is a planning number to bring to your local health office, not a promise. The Sanitation archive walks through composting toilet realities and greywater design honestly.
What no calculator can know: your seasonal water table, ledge depth, setbacks from wells and streams, and your state's reserve-area rules, all of which the site evaluation settles. Use these numbers to budget and negotiate; let the soil scientist draw the real map. And whatever you build, water frugality, which the water usage calculator plans, is the cheapest septic insurance there is: every gallon not used is a gallon the field never has to swallow.
Nearly every state sizes by bedrooms: 1,000 gallons minimum for up to three bedrooms, stepping up about 250 gallons per bedroom after that. Design flow is figured at 120 to 150 gallons per bedroom per day. The tank is rarely the expensive part; the soil the drainfield sits in is.
Daily design flow divided by the soil's acceptance rate. A three-bedroom house at 450 gallons a day needs about 560 square feet of trench bottom in good loam, but over 2,000 in heavy clay, if it qualifies at all. That one soil property is why the perc test decides whether land is buildable.
In a growing number of states, yes. Removing toilet waste cuts design flow about 40 percent, shrinking the field, and some states permit simplified greywater disposal. Rules genuinely range from encouraged to unrecognized, so confirm with your local health office before building around it.
Septic & greywater sizing returns design flow, septic tank, drainfield area, and trench length. Every one of those is a planning figure rather than a specification: it tells you the size of the problem and roughly what it will take to solve, which is what you need before you can shortlist equipment or ask a supplier a sensible question.
The single most useful habit with any calculator on this site is to run it more than once. Change one input at a time and watch which output moves. That tells you where your design is sensitive, and design sensitivity is far more valuable than a single answer, because it identifies the assumption worth spending real effort to pin down. If a modest change in one input swings the result substantially, that input deserves a measurement rather than an estimate.
It is also worth running the pessimistic version. Off-grid systems are sized by their worst case rather than their average, and a design that only works on the numbers you hoped for is a design that works for part of the year. Put in the colder temperature, the longer run, the larger household, the dimmer month, and see whether the answer is still one you can live with.
Any tool like this works from the inputs you give it and from published averages for everything else. It does not know your particular site, the way your household actually behaves, the corner your building was cut in, or the ten-year-old equipment already installed that does not match its datasheet. Treat the output as a well-informed starting bracket, not as a specification to order against.
Three things in particular sit outside what any of these tools can see. The first is local rules, which decide what you may build regardless of what the arithmetic says: the laws pages cover those by state, county, and town. The second is the condition and quality of what you install, which is why two identical designs perform differently. The third is how the system is wired and protected, which decides whether it is safe rather than whether it is adequate, and which is the subject of lesson six.
Where a number here comes from a constant or a rule of thumb, the method notes above say so and give the source. That is deliberate: a result you cannot check is a result you should not act on, and the arithmetic here is simple enough to verify by hand on paper if you want to.
A single figure rarely settles anything on its own, because off-grid systems constrain each other. The load list decides the array, the array decides the controller, the battery decides what the inverter can deliver, and the climate at your site decides all of it. The system planner takes one set of inputs and produces a whole coherent plan rather than an isolated number, which is usually the better next step once you have a figure you trust.
For location-specific inputs, the site report gives any address its real 30-year sun, climate, elevation, and distance figures, including the worst-month sun hours that size an off-grid system properly. For the equipment that the result points at, the spec tables list what manufacturers publish, normalised so that units of different sizes can be compared, and each product page works its own numbers through. For what things cost this month, the price index.
And for the reasoning rather than the arithmetic, the free course runs through the decisions in the order they actually arrive, from deciding whether the life suits you through to the first year on the land. Most of the mistakes that calculators cannot prevent are ordering mistakes, made before anyone opened a calculator at all.
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A urine-diverting composting toilet widely used in cabins and vans: separating liquids and solids keeps odor down and emptying simple.
Researched, not personally tested
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