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Heat loss & insulation calculator

Estimate how much heat your building actually loses, what a season costs in cords, propane gallons, or kWh, and what stepping up the insulation would save you every year.

1. The building

2. Your winters

This calculator needs JavaScript turned on. With it off, the guide below walks through the math by hand.

How this calculator works

The formula

Design load BTU/hr = sq ft x 35 x (design temperature difference / 70) x build-quality factor (1.4 / 1.0 / 0.7 / 0.45) x (ceiling height / 8). Seasonal BTU = (design load / design dT) x 24 x heating degree days. Fuel equivalents: cords = seasonal BTU / (20,000,000 x 0.70); propane gallons = seasonal BTU / (91,500 x 0.85); kWh = seasonal BTU / 3,412.

Worked example

800 sq ft, 8 ft ceilings, average build, moderate climate (55 F dT, 5,500 HDD): design load 800 x 35 x (55/70) = 22,000 BTU/hr. Seasonal: (22,000/55) x 24 x 5,500 = 52.8 million BTU, which is 3.8 cords, 679 gallons of propane, or 15,475 kWh. One level tighter saves 30%: about 1.1 cords or 204 gallons a year.

Assumptions

  • HEURISTIC constants: the 35 BTU/hr per sq ft baseline and the 1.4 / 1.0 / 0.7 / 0.45 construction multipliers are rules of thumb from common HVAC sizing practice, not values from a measured standard. A Manual J load calculation (the ANSI-recognized residential method) replaces them with a room-by-room model and is what an HVAC professional will run.
  • Baseline of 35 BTU/hr per sq ft at a 70 F design temperature difference for average construction with 8 ft ceilings
  • Build quality multipliers: 1.4 drafty, 1.0 average, 0.7 tight, 0.45 super-insulated
  • Climate pairs of design dT and heating degree days: mild 40/3,200, moderate 55/5,500, cold 70/7,500, severe 85/9,500 (ZIP lookup can pick for you)
  • Fuel content and efficiency: wood 20M BTU/cord at 70% stove efficiency, propane 91,500 BTU/gal at 85%, electric resistance at 3,412 BTU/kWh
  • The upgrade row reruns the same math one build-quality level tighter

When it will be wrong

  • This is planning math, not a Manual J load calculation or an energy audit; windows, air leakage, and solar gain are folded into one multiplier
  • Internal gains (people, cooking, sun) offset some heat in real buildings, so seasonal figures err high for tight homes
  • The four climate buckets are coarse; your actual heating degree days may sit between them
  • Heat pumps are not modeled; the kWh figure is straight electric resistance

Validation cases

CaseInputsExpected output
HL-001800 sq ft, average build (x1.0), cold climate (design dT 70, HDD 7,500), 8 ft ceilingsDesign load ~28,000 BTU/hr; season ~72 MMBTU; ~5.1 cords at 70% stove efficiency
HL-002Same cabin, super-insulated (x0.45)Design load ~12,600 BTU/hr; season ~32.4 MMBTU; ~2.3 cords

Formula version 1.0, in effect since 2026-08-25. Changes to formulas or assumptions bump this version and are listed in the corrections log.

Where the numbers come from

These are the exact numbers the calculator on this page runs, stated so you can check them. Planning estimates, not engineering; sizing that matters gets confirmed by a professional against local conditions and code. Spotted a problem with the method? Tell me.

Want the reasoning, not just the number? Lesson 7: Heat: the system that decides your winter in the free course walks through it, and the system planner carries the answer into a whole design.

Before you argue about stoves, heaters, or fuels, there is one number underneath the whole conversation: how much heat your building loses. This calculator estimates that loss two ways, the peak load on the coldest design night, and the total energy a whole season takes, then translates the season into the three currencies off-grid people actually spend: cords of wood, gallons of propane, and kilowatt-hours.

Design load versus seasonal load

The design load, in BTU per hour, is what your heater must be able to produce when it is as cold outside as your climate realistically gets. It sizes the equipment. The seasonal load, in millions of BTU, is the sum of every hour of the heating season weighted by how cold each hour was, which is what heating degree days measure. It sizes the woodpile and the budget. Two buildings can share a design load and have very different seasonal loads if one sits in a longer winter.

The calculator scales a baseline loss rate by your climate's design temperature difference, your ceiling height (more volume, more air to keep warm), and the build-quality multiplier, which is doing the heavy lifting. A drafty camp can lose three times the heat of a super-insulated build of identical size. If you want the fuller version of this math applied specifically to wood heat, the firewood calculator runs the same logic straight to a stove size and cords.

The fuel row is a price list

A million BTU delivered into the room costs roughly: one fourteenth of a cord of hardwood through a decent stove, about 13 gallons of propane through an efficient heater, or about 293 kWh of electric resistance heat. Off-grid, that last one is the killer, resistance heat from a battery bank is the most expensive warmth money can buy, which is why serious off-grid builds heat with wood or propane and save electricity for everything else. A cold-climate heat pump changes the electric math by roughly a factor of 2.5, but only if you have the array and bank to feed it, which the solar calculator can size honestly.

Why the last row is the most important number on this page

The "one insulation level tighter" row prices the upgrade nobody gets excited about. Air sealing and insulation are permanent: they cut every future winter's fuel, shrink the stove you need, quiet the building, and never break or need refilling. A step from average to tight construction typically cuts heating energy about 30 percent, every year, forever. Compare the one-time cost of cellulose, foam board, and a weekend of caulk against buying that percentage of your woodpile or propane annually, and insulation is usually the best-paying investment on the whole homestead.

Chase the leaks in order: air sealing first (rim joists, penetrations, attic hatches, door sweeps), then attic depth, then walls and windows. The Shelter & Structures archive and Heating & Cooking archive walk through the projects themselves, in the order that pays.

Quick answers

Common questions

How many BTU does it take to heat a cabin?

On the coldest design night, roughly 30 to 60 BTU per hour per square foot: 30 for a tight build in a mild climate, 60 for average construction in a severe one, and more for a drafty camp. An 800 square foot cabin in a cold climate typically needs a 35,000 to 45,000 BTU heat source.

Does insulation really pay off-grid?

Better than almost any other investment on the property. Moving one level up in tightness, say average to well-insulated, cuts heating energy roughly 30 percent every year, forever: fewer cords to cut, fewer propane fills, a smaller stove. Air sealing (rim joists, penetrations, door sweeps) is the cheapest first step and often the biggest.

What is the cheapest way to heat off-grid?

Wood, if you have trees and a good stove; a cord you cut yourself delivers about 14 million usable BTU for sweat. Propane is the low-labor second. The one answer that is always wrong off-grid is electric resistance heat from batteries, which costs several times propane per BTU once you price the solar to feed it.

Getting a useful answer out of this

Heat loss & insulation returns design heat load, heat needed per season, a season, in fuel, and one insulation level tighter. Every one of those is a planning figure rather than a specification: it tells you the size of the problem and roughly what it will take to solve, which is what you need before you can shortlist equipment or ask a supplier a sensible question.

The single most useful habit with any calculator on this site is to run it more than once. Change one input at a time and watch which output moves. That tells you where your design is sensitive, and design sensitivity is far more valuable than a single answer, because it identifies the assumption worth spending real effort to pin down. If a modest change in one input swings the result substantially, that input deserves a measurement rather than an estimate.

It is also worth running the pessimistic version. Off-grid systems are sized by their worst case rather than their average, and a design that only works on the numbers you hoped for is a design that works for part of the year. Put in the colder temperature, the longer run, the larger household, the dimmer month, and see whether the answer is still one you can live with.

What a calculator cannot know

Any tool like this works from the inputs you give it and from published averages for everything else. It does not know your particular site, the way your household actually behaves, the corner your building was cut in, or the ten-year-old equipment already installed that does not match its datasheet. Treat the output as a well-informed starting bracket, not as a specification to order against.

Three things in particular sit outside what any of these tools can see. The first is local rules, which decide what you may build regardless of what the arithmetic says: the laws pages cover those by state, county, and town. The second is the condition and quality of what you install, which is why two identical designs perform differently. The third is how the system is wired and protected, which decides whether it is safe rather than whether it is adequate, and which is the subject of lesson six.

Where a number here comes from a constant or a rule of thumb, the method notes above say so and give the source. That is deliberate: a result you cannot check is a result you should not act on, and the arithmetic here is simple enough to verify by hand on paper if you want to.

Where to take the answer next

A single figure rarely settles anything on its own, because off-grid systems constrain each other. The load list decides the array, the array decides the controller, the battery decides what the inverter can deliver, and the climate at your site decides all of it. The system planner takes one set of inputs and produces a whole coherent plan rather than an isolated number, which is usually the better next step once you have a figure you trust.

For location-specific inputs, the site report gives any address its real 30-year sun, climate, elevation, and distance figures, including the worst-month sun hours that size an off-grid system properly. For the equipment that the result points at, the spec tables list what manufacturers publish, normalised so that units of different sizes can be compared, and each product page works its own numbers through. For what things cost this month, the price index.

And for the reasoning rather than the arithmetic, the free course runs through the decisions in the order they actually arrive, from deciding whether the life suits you through to the first year on the land. Most of the mistakes that calculators cannot prevent are ordering mistakes, made before anyone opened a calculator at all.

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