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Driveway gravel & cost calculator

Enter the run you need to cover and get the cubic yards, tons, truckloads, and rough dollars, whether it's a fresh top course or a new road built from the dirt up.

The drive

This calculator needs JavaScript turned on. With it off, the guide below walks through the math by hand.

How this calculator works

The formula

Cubic yards = length x width x (depth in inches / 12) / 27, times 1.15 for compaction. Tons = cubic yards x 1.4. Truckloads = tons / 12, rounded up. Cost = tons x your delivered price per ton.

Worked example

A 300 ft x 12 ft drive at 6 inches: 1,800 cubic feet = 66.7 loose yards, 76.7 yards with compaction, about 107 tons, 9 tri-axle loads, roughly $3,757 at $35 per delivered ton.

Assumptions

  • 15% compaction allowance on the loose volume
  • 1.4 tons per cubic yard of crushed stone
  • 12-ton tri-axle truckloads
  • Depth presets: 3 in top-up, 6 in new gravel on firm ground, 10 in new road on soft ground (with base)
  • Crushed stone with fines (crusher run), not round stone, is the assumed material

When it will be wrong

  • Density varies by rock type and moisture; limestone, granite, and bank-run gravel do not all weigh 1.4 tons per yard
  • Soft or wet subgrade eats stone; without geotextile fabric a 10-inch build can disappear into mud
  • Delivered price swings widely with distance to the pit; the cost line is only as good as your quoted price
  • Culverts, ditching, and grading are separate line items the tool does not include

Formula version 1.0, in effect since 2026-08-25. Changes to formulas or assumptions bump this version and are listed in the corrections log.

Where the numbers come from

These are the exact numbers the calculator on this page runs, stated so you can check them. Planning estimates, not engineering; sizing that matters gets confirmed by a professional against local conditions and code. Spotted a problem with the method? Tell me.

Want the reasoning, not just the number? Lesson 8: The building itself in the free course walks through it, and the system planner carries the answer into a whole design.

The driveway is the least romantic project on a rural property and the one you will use every single day. This calculator turns a length and width into the numbers the quarry and the trucking company actually deal in, cubic yards, tons, and loads, plus a dollar figure honest enough to budget with.

The math, and the 15 percent nobody remembers

Volume is length times width times depth, converted to cubic yards, then bumped 15 percent because crushed stone compacts as it is placed and driven on. Crushed stone runs about 1.4 tons per cubic yard, and a tri-axle dump truck delivers 10 to 14 tons per trip. Delivered prices swing hard with hauling distance, 25 to 50 dollars a ton is the common band, which is why the calculator lets you plug in your local quote; the haul often costs more than the stone.

Build it in courses, not inches of hope

A driveway that lasts is a structure: geotextile fabric on soft ground so the stone cannot sink into the subsoil, a base course of larger stone (2 to 3 inch) for strength, and a top course of crusher run, stone with fines that locks into a tight, driveable surface. Round decorative stone never locks and never stops migrating; buy angular crushed material with fines for anything a vehicle touches. The fabric is the cheapest line on the whole job and roughly doubles the life of everything placed above it, skipping it is how the same driveway gets bought twice.

A refresh of the top two or three inches every handful of years is normal maintenance, not failure. If your existing drive eats gravel annually, the base or the drainage is the real problem, and more top stone is just tribute.

Water ruins driveways; grading saves them

Every dead driveway was killed by water. Crown the surface a couple of inches so rain sheds sideways instead of running down the wheel tracks, cut ditches where the land sends water at the road, and put culverts where water must cross, sized for the storm, not the average day. On slopes, a water bar or broad dip every so often sends runoff off the road before it gathers speed. Mud season is the test: a well-drained gravel road shrugs it off, and anything else becomes a rut farm every spring.

Get the truck driver on your side, a skilled operator can tailgate-spread most of the stone as they roll, saving you hours of machine time; dumped piles mean renting a tractor or skid steer to spread. If the drive is long, plan the loads in stages and drive on the base course for a season before topping it. For the bigger picture of developing raw land, access, clearing, and the order to do it all in, the Land & Real Estate archive and Shelter & Structures archive carry on from here, and the fencing calculator prices the next line item most properties hit.

Quick answers

Common questions

How much gravel does a driveway take?

Length times width times depth, plus about 15 percent for compaction. A 300 foot drive, 12 feet wide at 6 inches deep, needs about 77 cubic yards, roughly 107 tons, or nine tri-axle truckloads. At a typical $35 a ton delivered, that is about $3,700 in stone.

What kind of gravel is best for a driveway?

Crushed stone with fines, sold as crusher run or dense-grade, because the angular pieces and dust lock into a tight surface. Round decorative stone never locks and migrates forever. On soft ground, lay geotextile fabric first and build a base course of larger stone under the top layer.

Why do gravel driveways keep needing more gravel?

Water, almost always. Without a crowned surface, ditches, and culverts where water crosses, runoff channels down the wheel tracks and carries the surface away, and on soft subsoil without fabric the stone slowly sinks. Fix drainage once and a top-up every few years is all the maintenance left.

Getting a useful answer out of this

Driveway gravel & cost returns cubic yards, tons, truckloads, and rough cost. Every one of those is a planning figure rather than a specification: it tells you the size of the problem and roughly what it will take to solve, which is what you need before you can shortlist equipment or ask a supplier a sensible question.

The single most useful habit with any calculator on this site is to run it more than once. Change one input at a time and watch which output moves. That tells you where your design is sensitive, and design sensitivity is far more valuable than a single answer, because it identifies the assumption worth spending real effort to pin down. If a modest change in one input swings the result substantially, that input deserves a measurement rather than an estimate.

It is also worth running the pessimistic version. Off-grid systems are sized by their worst case rather than their average, and a design that only works on the numbers you hoped for is a design that works for part of the year. Put in the colder temperature, the longer run, the larger household, the dimmer month, and see whether the answer is still one you can live with.

What a calculator cannot know

Any tool like this works from the inputs you give it and from published averages for everything else. It does not know your particular site, the way your household actually behaves, the corner your building was cut in, or the ten-year-old equipment already installed that does not match its datasheet. Treat the output as a well-informed starting bracket, not as a specification to order against.

Three things in particular sit outside what any of these tools can see. The first is local rules, which decide what you may build regardless of what the arithmetic says: the laws pages cover those by state, county, and town. The second is the condition and quality of what you install, which is why two identical designs perform differently. The third is how the system is wired and protected, which decides whether it is safe rather than whether it is adequate, and which is the subject of lesson six.

Where a number here comes from a constant or a rule of thumb, the method notes above say so and give the source. That is deliberate: a result you cannot check is a result you should not act on, and the arithmetic here is simple enough to verify by hand on paper if you want to.

Where to take the answer next

A single figure rarely settles anything on its own, because off-grid systems constrain each other. The load list decides the array, the array decides the controller, the battery decides what the inverter can deliver, and the climate at your site decides all of it. The system planner takes one set of inputs and produces a whole coherent plan rather than an isolated number, which is usually the better next step once you have a figure you trust.

For location-specific inputs, the site report gives any address its real 30-year sun, climate, elevation, and distance figures, including the worst-month sun hours that size an off-grid system properly. For the equipment that the result points at, the spec tables list what manufacturers publish, normalised so that units of different sizes can be compared, and each product page works its own numbers through. For what things cost this month, the price index.

And for the reasoning rather than the arithmetic, the free course runs through the decisions in the order they actually arrive, from deciding whether the life suits you through to the first year on the land. Most of the mistakes that calculators cannot prevent are ordering mistakes, made before anyone opened a calculator at all.

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New here, or not sure where this fits? Start here walks through the whole thing in order.