Composting Toilet
A urine-diverting composting toilet widely used in cabins and vans: separating liquids and solids keeps odor down and emptying simple.
Researched, not personally tested

The consumables that actually fail off-grid, by system, with the sizes and part numbers you need to stock them ahead of time. An hour from the hardware store, the difference between a nuisance and a cold week is usually one fuse, one gasket, or one spark plug.
Part numbers are from manufacturer documentation and major retailer listings at the time of writing; always match against your exact model and manual. Items marked generic are a spec to match, not a specific part.
A small suitcase inverter generator that comes up constantly in off-grid owner discussions. The no-start problems owners report again and again on the EU2200i are a fouled plug, a low-oil shutdown, and a carburetor gummed by stale ethanol gas. Stock for those three first.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spark plug | NGK CR5HSB (Honda 98056-55777); gap 0.024 to 0.028 in; 5/8 in socket | Fouls from over-choking, stale fuel, and long idling on Eco-throttle. Honda says check every 100 hours, replace every 200 hours or yearly. | 2 |
| Air filter, foam elements | Honda 17211-Z07-000 (inner) and 17218-Z07-000 (outer); wash in soapy water, dip in clean engine oil, squeeze | Dust restricts airflow, runs rich, loses power; foam eventually crumbles. Clean every 50 hours, sooner in dust. | 2 sets |
| Engine oil | SAE 10W-30, API SJ or later; sump holds only 14 oz (0.44 L); no drain plug, you tip the unit | The tiny sump degrades oil fast and the low-oil sensor will shut you down. Change at 20 hours new, then every 100 hours or 6 months. | 2 qt |
| Carburetor assembly | Honda 16100-ZDJ-D01 (includes gasket); main jet alone is 99101-ZG0-0650 (#65) | Ethanol gas varnishes the jets in as little as 30 days. Swapping the carb is a 20-minute job; cleaning one in a cold shed is not. Drain the bowl via the drain screw for any storage over a month. | 1 carb, 2 jets |
| Carburetor gaskets | Honda 16010-ZM7-D01 gasket set; 16221-ZG0-801 carb gasket; 16212-Z0D-D00 insulator gasket | Tear on any carb removal. Reusing one gives you a vacuum leak and a hunting idle. | 1 set |
| Fuel strainer / fuel filter | In-neck strainer; in-tank filter sold as Honda 16952-ZA8-800 and 17670-Z07-R30 (confirm against your serial on a parts diagram) | Varnish and debris from stale gas; Honda lists a restricted strainer as a no-start cause. | 1 |
| Starter rope | Honda 28462-Z07-004 | Frays and snaps after years of pulls. No electric start on this unit, so no rope means no generator. | 1 |
| Spark arrester | Honda part, removed via the muffler protector screws; clean every 100 hours generic | Carbon clogs the screen; power loss and hard starting. | 0 to 1 |
| Fuel stabilizer | Any gasoline stabilizer (Honda recommends one); max E10 fuel, 86 octane or better generic | Stale fuel is the root cause of every carburetor entry above. | 1 bottle |
The failure owners report over and over is the carburetor. Ethanol gasoline left in the float bowl turns to varnish and blocks the main jet, which is why Honda's own storage instructions say to drain the fuel system before putting the generator away. Drain the bowl with the drain screw before storage, run the carb dry, and keep a spare carburetor (16100-ZDJ-D01) on the shelf so the fix is a swap, not a rebuild.
NGK CR5HSB, gapped to 0.024 to 0.028 inches. Honda's schedule is check and adjust every 100 hours, replace every 200 hours or once a year.
About 14 ounces of 10W-30. There is no drain plug; you tip the unit to drain it. Change after the first 20 hours, then every 100 hours or six months.
Covers the two families you see most: the ~4500 W dual-fuel inverter (model 200988 and siblings, 212 cc) and the 7500 W / 9375 W peak open-frame (model 100165 and siblings, 439 cc). Part numbers below are from Champion's own parts lists for those two models; sibling models share most but not all, so check your model's parts list before ordering a carburetor or recoil.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spark plug (both families) | Torch F6RTC stock; NGK BPR6ES replacement; gap 0.028 to 0.031 in. 4500 W uses a 17 mm socket (included); 7500 W uses 13/16 in (not included). Champion suggests BPR7ES or BPR8ES for heavy use in hot weather | Fouls from over-choking and from switching between propane and gasoline. Clean and gap every 100 hours. | 2 per unit |
| Air filter element, 4500 W inverter | Champion 17151-Z1D0110-0000 foam element (wash, oil, squeeze); gasket 17001-Z1D0110-00A0 | Dust; clean every 50 hours or yearly. | 2 |
| Air filter element, 7500 W open-frame | Champion 45.091003.20 foam element; gasket 46.130004.20 | Same; clean every 50 hours. | 2 |
| Engine oil | 10W-30 (5W-30 synthetic in cold). 4500 W holds 16.9 oz (500 ml); 7500 W holds 37.2 oz (1.1 L, about 1.2 qt) | Low-oil sensor shutdown. Change at 5 hours new, then every 100 hours or yearly, every 50 under heavy load or heat. | 2 to 3 qt |
| Fuel filters | 4500 W: 16652-Y9T0110-00A1 (tank) and 16652-Z800110-00A0 (carb inlet). 7500 W: 122.070300.03 | Stale-gas varnish; Champion's schedule has you clean the fuel-valve filter every 100 hours and replace fuel line every 3 years. | 1 each |
| Carburetor | 4500 W: 16100-Z3R0310-00A0 (gasket 16001-Z010110-00A0). 7500 W: 47.131000.25 (carb gasket 46.130003.20). High-altitude jets exist for both; match your carb code | Ethanol gas gums the carb if the unit sits 2 to 4 weeks without being run or drained. Drain the bowl for any storage longer than that. | 1 per unit, or at minimum carb cleaner |
| LPG hose with regulator | 4500 W: 77300HYJR0111-0000 (6 ft, fits 20 lb OPD cylinders). 7500 W: 47.130021.01 (3.3 ft) | Hoses crack with age and sun, regulators ice up in cold. Champion says replace the LPG hose every 3 years and leak-check every use. A spare keeps the propane side alive, which is the whole point of dual fuel. | 1 per unit |
| Recoil starter | 4500 W: 28200-Z1D0110-H600 (handle 28210-YEB0110-L400). 7500 W: 46.061000.00 (spring 45.060005.00, handle 21.061300.00) | Rope frays, spring fatigues. It is your only start when the electric-start battery is flat, which is every time the unit sat all winter. | 1 per unit |
| Starter battery | 4500 W: 12 V 1.6 Ah (31110-Y030610-00A0), charge 10 to 30 min every 180 days. 7500 W: 12 V 15 Ah (9.1000.150), run every 2 weeks or trickle charge | Dies in storage; both manuals tell you to keep it charged. | 1 spare or a small maintainer |
| Spark arrestor | 4500 W: 18250-Z800210-0000. 7500 W: 46.101300.00 (exhaust gasket 46.100001.07) | Carbon clogs the screen; clean every 100 hours. | 0 to 1 |
| Maintenance kit | None. Champion only sells kits for its home-standby units (100372, 100373, 100817). Build your own: 2 plugs, 2 foam elements, oil, fuel filter, LPG hose generic | There is no one-box answer for the portables; assemble it from the lines above. | 1 box |
Torch F6RTC from the factory, with NGK BPR6ES as the usual replacement, gapped 0.028 to 0.031 inches. Champion's service bulletin suggests a colder BPR7ES or BPR8ES if you run hard in hot weather.
Champion's manuals say replace the LPG hose and regulator every three years and check it for leaks with soapy water every time you run on propane.
Not that I can find. Their kits (100372, 100373, 100817) are for home-standby units. For a portable, keep two plugs, two foam elements, a quart or two of 10W-30, a fuel filter, and a spare LPG hose.
The 130 and 135 Mark II share a platform, and the homeowner-saw pattern is universal: keep two chains, a bar, plugs, a fuel filter, fresh mix, and bar oil. A spare chain turns a dull saw into a working saw in five minutes; the bar and fuel filter are the next two things to go.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Saw chain, 16 in | Husqvarna X-Cut S93G-56: 3/8 in mini (low-profile) pitch, .050 in gauge, 56 drive links, part 585 42 21-56. Oregon 91PX056G is the equivalent. Sharpen with a 5/32 in round file | Dulls, stretches, rocks. Swap instead of filing in the field, file the spares in the evening. | 2 |
| Guide bar, 16 in | Husqvarna HL280-56 laminate, 3/8 in mini .050, part 596 00 97-56 | Worn or pinched rails, a bent bar after a pinch, or a burned tip from running dry. | 1 |
| Spark plug | NGK BPMR7A (Husqvarna 503 23 51-11); gap 0.5 mm (0.020 in) | Cheapest no-start fix on the saw. | 2 |
| Air filter | Husqvarna 588 22 93-01 (mesh) or 588 22 93-02 (non-woven); fits 130 and 135 Mark II | Sawdust clogs it, saw bogs and runs rich. | 1 to 2 |
| Fuel filter, in-tank pickup | Husqvarna 503 44 32-01; 3/16 in ID fuel line | Clogged pickup means surging and a saw that will not idle. Replace yearly. | 1 to 2 |
| Two-stroke oil | 50:1 mix with Husqvarna XP+ (2.6 oz bottle per gallon, 598 68 21-01) or any quality 50:1 oil; ethanol-free gas if you can get it | Wrong ratio or stale mix scores the piston. Mix small batches. | 6 bottles |
| Bar and chain oil | Husqvarna X-Guard or any bar oil; oil tank on the 130 holds about half a pint | Running the bar dry burns the rails and stretches the chain. Fill oil at every fuel fill. | 1 gal |
| Tune-up kit | Husqvarna 599 33 42-01 (plug, air filter, fuel filter) fits this platform | Bundles the three yearly consumables. | 1 |
| Starter handle and rope | Husqvarna 545 01 00-10 (handle and rope) or 3 mm (#4) starter cord generic | Snapped cord means the saw is a paperweight. | 1 |
| Clutch drum / sprocket | Husqvarna 582 59 84-01 for this platform generic | Rim or spur wears a groove, chain skips. Replace with every second or third bar. | 1 |
A 3/8 inch mini (low-profile) pitch, .050 inch gauge chain with 56 drive links. Husqvarna's part is X-Cut S93G-56 (585 42 21-56); Oregon 91PX056G is the same spec.
NGK BPMR7A, gapped to 0.5 mm (0.020 inch). Husqvarna's part number is 503 23 51-11.
Two minimum. Swap a dull chain in the woods and file the spares at the bench. Add a spare bar, because a pinched or burned bar will stop you just as cold.
Generator, saw, mower, pump, tiller: different machines, same failures. Stale ethanol gas, a fouled plug, a snapped rope. These are the items that cover all of them.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fuel stabilizer for storage | STA-BIL Storage: 1 oz per 2.5 gal, keeps fuel up to 24 months; 10 oz bottle treats 25 gal | Stale, varnished gas is a frequent cause of no-start after storage, since fuel left sitting gums up jets and carburetor passages. | 1 bottle |
| Every-fill ethanol treatment | STA-BIL 360 Marine: 1 oz per 10 gal, every fill; or Sea Foam at 1 oz per gallon | Ethanol pulls in water and phase-separates in humid storage; corrodes carb and tank. | 1 bottle |
| Ethanol-free canned fuel | TruFuel 4-Cycle and TruFuel 50:1 (32 oz cans), pre-stabilized; or pump ethanol-free gas located via pure-gas.org | Stores for years and starts first pull. Worth keeping a few cans for the emergency start in January. | 2 to 4 cans per engine type |
| Carburetor cleaner | Gumout Jet Spray Carb and Choke Cleaner, 14 oz (800002231) or CRC equivalent | Clears gum from jets, choke, and linkage; fixes surging without a rebuild. | 2 cans |
| Starter rope | #4 (1/8 in, 3 mm) for chainsaws and most 2-cycle; #4.5 (9/64 in) for most 4-cycle mowers and generators; #5 for larger 4-cycle. Oregon sells it by the foot (31-140, 31-142, 31-150) | Frays and snaps at the handle or pulley. Verify your engine's size before you cut. | 10 ft each of #4 and #4.5 |
| Fuel line | Tygon 3/32 in ID for 2-cycle saws and trimmers; 1/4 in ID for 4-cycle; plus small hose clamps | Ethanol hardens and cracks the line; a cracked line sucks air and the engine surges. | 3 ft each |
| Primer bulb | Walbro 188-512-1 fits many 2-cycle carbs; match your carb generic | Cracks and stops priming; saw or trimmer will not start cold. | 1 |
| Inline fuel filters | Oregon 07-207, 07-066, 07-110 cover most 2-cycle pickups; match line diameter generic | Clog with varnish and debris. | 2 |
| Feeler gauge | GEARWRENCH 161D 32-blade, 0.0015 to 0.035 in | Sets plug gap (0.020 to 0.030 in on most small engines), valve lash, and coil air gap. | 1 |
| Spark tester | Lisle 20610 inline spark tester | Tells you in ten seconds whether a no-start is ignition or fuel. | 1 |
| Compression tester | Any gauge with an M14 (and M10) adapter generic | Separates a worn engine from a fuel problem before you buy parts. | 1 |
Chainsaws and most 2-cycle engines use #4 (1/8 inch, 3 mm). Most 4-cycle push mowers and portable generators use #4.5 (9/64 inch). Larger 4-cycle engines use #5. Check your engine before cutting; a rope that is too fat will not fit the pulley.
Yes, for anything that sits. Ethanol absorbs water and goes stale in about a month; canned ethanol-free fuel keeps for years and starts first pull. Use pure-gas.org to find a pump near you, and keep a few cans of TruFuel for emergencies.
Victron MPPTs rarely fail on their own. What fails is around them: the battery-side fuse, a cracked MC4, a chewed VE.Direct cable, or a cold-morning string that exceeds the controller's PV voltage limit (which is not repairable, so size the array right and keep the spec card with the spares).
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Battery-side fuse | Victron manual: MPPT 100/50 min 55 A, max 70 A; 100/30 min 35 A, max 40 A; 150/45 min 50 A, max 63 A; 150/35 40 to 45 A. Install in the battery lead | Blows on a wiring short or reverse hookup. A missing battery fuse is one of the install errors that comes up most in owner forums. | 2 in your rating |
| MRBF terminal fuse and block | Blue Sea 5191 block (30 to 300 A, 58 V DC, fits 12/24/48 V); MRBF 60 A is Blue Sea 5178, 80 A is 5181 | Puts the fuse within inches of the battery; 58 V rating works on 48 V banks where MIDI and ANL do not. | 1 block, 2 fuses |
| MIDI / AMI fuse (12/24 V only) | Blue Sea 5253 = 60 A (5250 = 30, 5252 = 50, 5256 = 100, 5258 = 150); holder Blue Sea 7720; 32 V DC max | Common controller-to-battery fuse on 12 and 24 V systems. Not for 48 V. | 2 |
| Controller limits card | 100/30 and 100/50: max PV Voc 100 V, max Isc 35 A (100/30) or 60 A (100/50); terminals 16 mmΒ² / 6 AWG; torque 1.6 Nm; 150/45: 150 V Voc. Battery first, then PV generic | Over-voltage on a cold morning kills the input stage and is not warranted. Loose terminals overheat. Tape the card to the controller. | 1 torque screwdriver |
| PV-side fuse | No table in the Victron manual. Single string: none needed. Three or more parallel strings: one fuse per string, usually 15 A (the panel's max series fuse) generic | Back-feed into a shaded or failed panel when strings are paralleled. | 2 Γ 15 A if you run parallel strings |
| MC4 connector pairs | Victron SCA520300000 (male + female pair) or genuine StΓ€ubli PV-KST4 / PV-KBT4; Y-splitter SCA520500000 | Cracked housings, burned pins, UV-aged seals, bad field crimps. Match the brand on your panels; mixed brands arc. | 2 to 3 pairs |
| MC4 crimp tool | StΓ€ubli PV-CZM-22100 (2.5 / 4 / 6 mmΒ²) plus unlocking spanner | Cheap crimpers make the high-resistance joints that melt. | 1 |
| VE.Direct cable | ASS030530203 (0.3 m), 209 (0.9 m), 218 (1.8 m), 230 (3 m), 250 (5 m), 310 (10 m); right-angle versions ASS030531xxx | Latch breaks, rodents chew it; you lose the link to the GX or shunt. | 1 in your installed length |
| VE.Direct to USB | ASS030530010 (USB-A) or ASS030530030 (USB-C) | Flash firmware and configure from a laptop if Bluetooth will not pair. | 1 |
| Spare controller | Same model or one size down as a get-by generic | Victron sells no internal parts. Reverse polarity or an over-voltage event means a new unit, and mail order to a rural address is a week. | 1 if the budget allows |
Victron's manual calls for a minimum 55 A and maximum 70 A fuse in the battery supply lead. A 60 A MRBF terminal fuse (Blue Sea 5178 on a 5191 block) is the usual choice and is rated for 12, 24, and 48 V banks.
With a single series string, no; the fuse protects the cable and there is nothing to back-feed. With three or more parallel strings, fuse each string at the panel's maximum series fuse rating, typically 15 A.
Panels themselves rarely fail in owner reports; connectors, fuses, and crimps do. The spares here are the ones that let you fix a dead string with a pair of pliers instead of a parts order.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Panel spec card (Renogy RNG-100D-SS) | Two revisions in the wild: Voc 22.3 V / Isc 5.86 A, or Voc 24.3 V / Isc 5.21 A. Both: max series fuse 15 A, 14 AWG leads, MC4-type connectors. Read your label | Drives every fuse and wire size below. A string of four can reach 97 V Voc, too close to a 100 V controller on a cold morning. | tape it to the controller |
| Spare panel | One per 8 or so installed generic | Bypass diodes and junction boxes are not field-serviceable on these; a spare panel is the repair. | 1 |
| MC4 inline fuse holder and fuses | Renogy RNG-CNCT-FUSE15 (also 10/20/30 A); fuse per parallel string at 15 A (panel max series fuse). Renogy rule: parallel Isc Γ 1.25, never above the panel rating | Holder seals fail; fuse blows on back-feed. Single series string needs none. | 1 holder, 2 fuses per string |
| Controller-to-battery fuse | Renogy rule: 1.25 Γ controller rated amps (30 A controller β 40 A; 40 A β 50 A), as close to the battery as possible generic | Protects the battery lead from a short. Blown fuse, no charging until replaced. | 2 in your rating |
| MC4 Y-branch pair | Renogy RNG-CNCT-MC4Y-US (MMF + FFM), 30 A, 10 to 14 AWG | Carries summed current of paralleled strings; no-name Y's overheat. | 1 pair |
| Extension cable | Renogy RNG-EXTCB-20FT-10: 20 ft, 10 AWG, MC4 ends | UV-cracked jacket, rodent damage; lets you reroute a run. | 1 pair |
| ANL fuse block and fuses | Blue Sea 5005 block (35 to 300 A, 32 V); fuses 5125 = 100 A, 5127 = 150 A, 5129 = 200 A, 5131 = 250 A | Fine for 12 V inverter feeds. Low interrupt rating: not a LiFePO4 main fuse. | 2 per rating used |
| MRBF terminal fuses | Blue Sea 5178 = 60 A, 5184 = 125 A, 5189 = 250 A on block 5191 (single) or 2151 (dual); 58 V DC | Easiest battery-terminal fuse for 12 to 48 V. | 2 per rating used |
| Bus bars and nuts | Blue Sea 2104 PowerBar 600 A (four 3/8 in studs), 2107 (eight studs), 2127 MaxiBus 250 A (5/16 in studs) | Do not fail; keep spare flange nuts in 3/8 and 5/16 because you will drop one. | spare nuts |
| Battery cable lugs | Tinned copper in your gauges, 5/16 and 3/8 holes; 4/0 examples: Selterm MD4056PXL (5/16), MD4038PXL (3/8); adhesive heat-shrink | Corrosion, cracked crimps, overheated joints. | 4 per size and hole |
| Wire ferrules | Insulated ferrules in 6 AWG (16 mmΒ², Victron terminals) and 10/12/14 AWG, with a ratchet crimper generic | Stranded wire under a screw terminal frays and loosens. | assortment |
| Anderson connectors | SB50 kit 6331G1 (8 AWG contacts); SB120 for 2 to 4 AWG; SB175 for 1/0 generic | Contacts lose spring after many cycles. | 1 housing pair + contacts |
Renogy's rule is parallel short-circuit current times 1.25, never above the panel's maximum series fuse rating of 15 A. Two 100 W panels in parallel (about 10 A) get a 15 A fuse. A single series string needs no string fuse.
Not as the main fuse. ANL fuses have a low interrupt rating and may not clear a LiFePO4 dead short. Use a Class T fuse within 7 inches of the bank; ANL is fine downstream on 12 V inverter and load feeds.
The battery is the BMS and the BMS is not serviceable, so the spares are everything that touches the battery: the main fuse, the terminal hardware, the lugs, and the shunt that tells you what is happening.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Battery limits card (BB10012) | 100 A continuous, 200 A for 30 s; BMS high-voltage disconnect above 14.7 V, low-voltage below 10 V; no charging below 25 Β°F; charge 14.2 to 14.6 V, float 13.4 to 13.8 V; auto-reconnect 5 s after overcurrent; a short-circuit trip needs cables pulled to reset | Winter low-temp lockout and a latched short trip look like a dead battery. Leaving it under 10 V for 24 hours voids the warranty. | tape to the bank |
| Terminal hardware | 5/16-18 stainless bolts (1 in and 1-1/4 in), washers, nylock nuts; torque 9 to 11 ft-lb with a torque wrench; stack: bolt, washer, lug, terminal, washer, nut | Loose or corroded terminals heat up; finger-tight voids the warranty. | spare bolt kit + torque wrench |
| Class T main fuse | Littelfuse JLLN200 (200 A), JLLN250 (250 A); Blue Sea 5119 = 300 A, 5120 = 350 A, 5121 = 400 A. Size to inverter continuous amps Γ 1.25, within cable ampacity. Battle Born: on the main positive within 7 in of the bank | Only fuse class that reliably clears a LiFePO4 dead short. Blows once, and you are dark until replaced. | 1 to 2 |
| Class T fuse block | Blue Sea 5007100 (110 to 200 A, 1/4 in studs) or 5502 (225 to 400 A, 3/8 in studs), 160 V DC | Rarely fails; keep for reconfiguring. | 0 to 1 |
| MRBF alternative for a single 100 Ah | Blue Sea MRBF on block 5191, 58 V DC, 10 kA interrupt at 14 V; 1.25 Γ inverter input (e.g. 167 A β 200 A) generic | Adequate on a single small 12 V battery; step up to Class T as the bank grows. | 2 |
| Battery monitor / shunt | Victron SmartShunt 500 A (SHU050150050; M10 bolts, 21 Nm) or 300 A (SHU050130050; M8, 10 Nm); ships with two fused red sense cables | The fused sense cable blows or corrodes and the monitor reads zero; a missed sync gives a wrong state of charge. | 1 spare fused red cable, M10 ring terminals |
| Battery cable lugs | 2/0 to 4/0 tinned, 5/16 hole for the battery terminal, 3/8 for the Class T block or PowerBar | Overheated and corroded lugs at the highest-current joints. | 4 each |
| Bus bars | Blue Sea 2104 / 2107 PowerBar 600 A or 2127 MaxiBus 250 A | Spare flange nuts. | spare nuts |
| Spare battery | Same chemistry and capacity generic | The BMS is the battery. A latched BMS, a bad cell, or a cold-weather lockout during a storm is the failure you cannot fix with parts. | 1 if the bank is small |
| Lithium-capable 12 V charger | Any charger with a lithium profile that can recover a pack under 10 V within 24 hours generic | Pulls a low-voltage-disconnected battery back before the warranty clock runs out. | 1 |
A Class T fuse on the main positive conductor within 7 inches of the bank, sized at about 1.25 times the inverter's continuous input current. Class T (Littelfuse JLLN or Blue Sea 5119 to 5121) has the interrupt rating to clear a lithium dead short; ANL does not.
The BMS blocks charging below about 25 Β°F to protect the cells. It is not broken. Warm the battery, or use a heated model, and the charge current will be accepted again.
A 12 V diaphragm pump is cheap enough that the whole-pump spare is the honest answer. What you can fix on the bench is the pressure switch, the strainer, and the nylon fittings, which crack long before the motor wears out.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Whole spare pump | SEAFLO 33-series 12 V, 3.0 GPM, 45 PSI (SFDP1-030-045-33 or -033-); Shurflo 4008-101-E65 (3.0 GPM, 55 PSI shut-off, 40 PSI restart) | SEAFLO sells no diaphragm or valve kit for the 33-series in the US; Shurflo does. Either way a $60 to $90 pump on the shelf beats a dry house. | 1 |
| SEAFLO pressure switch | SF-APS-45 adjustable (also 35/40/55/60/70/80/100 PSI), fits 33-series and most 21/22/41/43 | Contacts wear or stick; pump will not shut off or will not start. The failure owners report most on the 33-series. | 1 |
| SEAFLO strainer and fittings | 51S01 twist-on inline strainer, 1/2 in NPSM, 50 mesh; 51F01 1/2-14 FNPT Γ 1/2 in barb (2 ship with the pump); 51F08 for 3/4 in hose; 51F09 FNPT Γ FNPT | Screen clogs with tank sediment (low flow, noise, cavitation); nylon barbs crack from over-tight clamps and freeze. SEAFLO says plastic fittings, not metal. | 1 strainer, 4 fittings |
| SEAFLO fuse and wire | Manual calls for an 18 A fuse in the positive lead (many installs run 10 to 15 A; draw is about 7 to 8 A); 16 AWG to 20 ft, 14 AWG to 30 ft, 12 AWG to 50 ft generic | Blows on a jam or stall; undersized wire makes the pump cycle slowly. | 5 blade fuses |
| Shurflo 4008 rebuild parts | Upper housing with switch 94-800-00; valve assembly 94-800-01; drive (diaphragm) 94-800-02; check valve 94-800-03; pump head kit 94-800-04 (everything but the motor); pressure switch 94-800-05. The 94-231/232/236/238 numbers are for the older 2088 and do not fit | Fouled check-valve flaps make it cycle with the taps closed; switch contacts burn; diaphragm fatigues or freezes. | 1 head kit (94-800-04) or switch + valve |
| Shurflo strainer and fittings | Strainer 255-313 (1/2 in pipe) or 255-323 (barb); swivel fittings 244-2926 straight and 244-3926 elbow (1/2-14 NPT F Γ 1/2 in barb); silencing kit 94-591-01 | Bowl cracks, swivel nuts crack when over-torqued, hard plumbing rattles and stresses the fittings. | 1 strainer, 2 straight, 2 elbow |
| Shurflo fuse | 10 A; 16 AWG leads, 14 AWG or heavier to the panel | Blows on stall. | 5 blade fuses |
| Accumulator tank | Any small pre-charged accumulator set to the pump's restart pressure (about 40 PSI on the 4008) generic | Stops rapid cycling and extends switch life. | 0 to 1 |
SEAFLO's SF-APS-45 adjustable switch is listed for the 33-series and most of the 21, 22, 41, and 43 series. It is a ten-dollar part and it is the piece that fails first.
Yes. The 94-800-04 pump head kit replaces everything but the motor, and the switch (94-800-05), valve assembly (94-800-01), and drive (94-800-02) are sold separately. Do not order the 94-231 or 94-232 kits; those are for the older 2088.
A gravity filter fails three ways: the elements reach their gallons, a washer or plug lets unfiltered water bypass, or the spigot cracks and dumps the clean tank on the counter. A hollow-fiber squeeze filter fails one way you can see (split pouch) and one way you cannot (a membrane cracked by freezing).
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Black Berkey elements | BB9-2, set of 2; rated 3,000 gal each (6,000 per pair); scrub with a Scotch-Brite pad when flow drops. As of mid-2026 genuine Black elements are out of stock at authorized US dealers because of the EPA stop-sale; the maker's endorsed substitute is the Phoenix Gravity PGF9-2 (2,750 gal each, fits all Berkey housings, takes PF-2s) | Media exhausts; pores clog. Track gallons or date. Online listings claiming fresh Black Berkey stock in 2026 are worth treating with suspicion. | 1 set (Phoenix PGF9-2 is the realistic spare right now) |
| PF-2 fluoride / arsenic elements | PF-2 set of 2; replace at 1,000 gal or 1 year, whichever first | Saturate silently with no flow-rate warning. Calendar it. | 1 set per pair of Black elements |
| Spigot | Berkey B-Spigot (stem, white outer and black inner washer, nut); Sight Glass spigot SG-7.5 for Travel and Big Berkey (10 in Royal, 13 in Imperial and Crown) | Plastic spigot cracks, washer weeps, lower chamber drains onto the counter. | 1 + its washers |
| Element washers and wing nuts | Set of 2 washers + 2 wing nuts | A degraded washer lets raw water bypass the element at the upper-chamber hole. | 1 set per element pair |
| Blocking plugs | SSPlugs, 2 rubber plugs (stainless and Berkey Light systems) | Seal unused element holes; a lost or dry-rotted plug sends unfiltered water straight through. | 2 |
| Priming button / universal primer | Priming button XXPB (foam ring); PrimeRite universal primer BPA | New elements have almost no flow until primed; the button tears or walks off. | 2 buttons, 1 primer |
| Stainless replacement kit | SSR-Kit: spigot with washers and nut, 2 element washers, 2 wing nuts, 2 blocking plugs, scrub pad | One bag that covers every seal and plug above. | 1 |
| Sawyer Squeeze filter | SP129 (or SP131 with three pouches); 0.1 micron hollow fiber | A frozen or dropped filter can crack the membrane invisibly and no backflush fixes it. Never let it freeze; keep a spare. | 1 spare |
| Sawyer cleaning coupling / syringe | SP150 coupling fits a 28 mm bottle thread; syringe ships in the kit | Backflushing restores flow after silty water; the coupling replaces the bulky syringe in the field. | 1 per filter + 1 |
| Sawyer gaskets | SP112, set of 6 O-rings (0.985 in OD, 0.59 in ID) | Inlet-cap gasket cracks or falls out and raw water leaks past the threads. | 1 set |
| Sawyer pouches | SP113 (three 32 oz) or SP114 (two 64 oz); inline adapters SP110 | Seams split at the fold line; with no pouch you are back to a bottle. | 1 pack |
Each element is rated for 3,000 gallons, so a pair handles about 6,000 gallons. Scrub the outside with a Scotch-Brite pad when flow slows; replace when scrubbing no longer restores it or the gallon count is reached. PF-2 fluoride elements are separate and go at 1,000 gallons or one year.
Yes, and you cannot see it. Water inside the hollow fibers expands and cracks the membrane, and the filter still passes water. Sleep with it in winter and keep a spare if the first one has ever frozen.
A wood stove's consumables are cheap, and the gaskets, rope, and cement often carry the same handful of brand names across shops. The gasket rope, a box of firebrick, and the right-size chimney brush are the difference between a stove you can run hard all winter and one you nurse.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Door gasket kit | Rutland Grapho-Glas rope kit with cement, 7 ft: 96-6 = 3/8 in, 96N = 1/2 in, 96W-6 = 5/8 in, 99-6 = 3/4 in, 99N-6 = 7/8 in. Measure your old rope first | Hardens and frays; air leaks, overfire, no burn control. Replace when a dollar bill slides out of the closed door. | 1 kit per door and glass size |
| Glass (window) gasket | Rutland 95-6 flat tape kit, 5/8 Γ 3/16 in Γ 7 ft with cement; or the self-adhesive Grapho-Glas window gasket | Leaky window seal means sooty glass and an air leak. Replace whenever the glass comes out. | 1 |
| Replacement door glass | 3/16 in (5 mm) ceramic glass (PyroCeram / NeoCeram type) cut to your door's measurements; never tempered glass generic | Cracks from impact, over-tight clips, or thermal shock. Pre-cut panel is worth having if you are remote. | 1 |
| Gasket / stove cement | Rutland 77E (2.3 oz tube) or 78E (10.3 oz cartridge), 2000 Β°F; cure to 500 Β°F within 30 days | Glues the new rope in and seals hairline cracks in cast iron. Kit tubes are one-use. | 1 tube |
| Firebrick | Rutland 604-1 or US Stove FBP6E: 9 Γ 4-1/2 Γ 1-1/4 in standard brick, 6 per box; check whether your stove uses split bricks | A cracked brick exposes steel to direct flame and warps the firebox. Swap cracked ones each fall. | 1 box |
| Single-wall stove pipe section | 6 in Γ 24 in 24-gauge black: DuraVent DuraBlack 6DBK-24 or Imperial BM0111 (8 in sizes exist); plus one adjustable elbow and sheet-metal screws | Creosote acid pinholes the connector pipe; a spare length is a mid-winter swap instead of a cold house. | 1 to 2 sections + 1 elbow |
| Chimney brush and rods | Rutland round wire 16406 (6 in), 16407 (7), 16408 (8), 16409 (9), 16410 (10) for masonry; POLY 16906 (6 in) / 16908 (8 in) for stainless liners and metal pipe; square 16506; all 1/4 in NPT. Match the flue's inside measurement and shape | Creosote is what burns the house down. Brush must equal flue ID. | 1 brush + rods to full height |
| Creosote remover | Rutland 97 (1 lb) or 98 (2 lb); 1 oz on hot coals twice a week the first month, then weekly | Turns glaze into brushable ash between sweeps. Does not replace sweeping. | 1 tub per season |
| Stove-pipe thermometer | Rutland 701-6 magnetic burn indicator, on vertical single-wall pipe within about 6 in of the stove | Shows the creosote zone and the overfire zone. Face darkens and magnet weakens after a hot run. | 1 on the pipe, 1 spare |
Measure the inside of the flue and match it exactly; a 6-inch flue takes a 6-inch brush (Rutland 16406). Use wire for masonry and a poly brush for a stainless liner, and match the shape: round brushes for round flues, square for square.
When the dollar-bill test fails: close the door on a bill and if it slides out without resistance the rope is done. For a stove that heats a home all winter that is usually every one to three seasons.
The regulator and the pigtails are the wear items. A two-stage auto-changeover regulator on two cylinders means an empty tank never interrupts the stove at dinner, and a spare pigtail fixes the most common leak in ten minutes.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Two-stage auto-changeover regulator | Marshall Excelsior MEGR-253: two 1/4 in inverted-flare inlets, 3/8 in FNPT outlet, 11 in W.C., red/green indicator | Makers rate them 25 years; insurers and installers replace at 15 to 20. Frosting, a clogged vent, yellow flames, and low output are the tells. Write the install date on it. | 1 |
| Two-stage fixed regulator (single cylinder) | Camco 59333 horizontal, 1/4 in NPT inlet with POL, 3/8 in FNPT outlet, 160,000 BTU/hr; vent must face down | Backup for a single-cylinder feed. | 1 |
| Pigtail hoses | Camco 59053 (12 in) / 59065 (15 in), or Marshall Excelsior MER425-12/-15/-24: Type 1 ACME (QCC1) nut Γ 1/4 in inverted flare with excess-flow protection; POL version is MER401 for 100 lb cylinders | Rubber cracks and UV-ages, excess-flow check sticks. One per cylinder side. | 2 |
| POL adapter | Mr. Heater F273758: 1 in-20 throwaway-cylinder thread Γ soft-nose POL with handwheel | Runs 1 lb-appliance hoses from a 20 lb cylinder's POL port. | 1 |
| Leak detector | Camco 10325 (8 oz dauber) or Oatey 30209 (8 oz dauber) | Bubble-test every joint after every cylinder swap. Do not let it freeze. | 1 |
| OPD cylinder valve | Cavagna ROPD20DT4.0 for 20 lb cylinders, 3/4-14 NGT; must be installed by a qualified cylinder technician generic | Float and handwheel failures or a weeping relief condemn the cylinder. Hand it to the requalifier, not a DIY job. | 0 to 1 |
| Cylinder requalification dates | 49 CFR 180.209(e): 20 lb DOT cylinders are good 12 years from manufacture, then 5 years per external visual requalification (date stamped on the collar, E suffix) | Retailers refuse to fill expired cylinders. Rotate so none lapse. | track dates; 1 spare in-date cylinder |
Manufacturers rate a two-stage regulator for about 25 years; a conservative replacement budget is 15 to 20, or sooner if burner flames go yellow and weak, the regulator frosts, or the vent gets water in it. Keep a spare two-stage regulator and two pigtails on the shelf; together they cover nearly every supply-side failure.
Twelve years from the manufacture date stamped on the collar, then every five years after a visual requalification (the requalifier stamps a new date with an E). Exchange cages will not take an expired cylinder.
The fan is the only electrical part and it is the one that dies. Everything else is seals, a handle, and the coir that does the composting. All of it is cheap and all of it is a long drive away when you need it.
| Part | Spec / part number | Why it is on the wall | Keep |
|---|---|---|---|
| Fan assembly | Original NH-Fan-Assembly (40 Γ 10 mm 12 V, under 1 A) or the high-CFM NH-HIGHCFM-FAN (40 Γ 15 mm IP67 with WAGO connectors, the current standard) | When the fan stops, odor control and drying stop within a day. Buy the high-CFM version; the WAGO connectors let you swap just the fan next time. | 1, 2 if full-time |
| Fuse and holder | NH-Fuse (12 V; the manual wants a 2 to 5 A fused circuit); inline holder NH-FusHous | A blown fuse is a dead fan and the cheapest way to lose a weekend. | 3 to 5 fuses, 1 holder |
| Vent hose and ends | NH-Hose 1-1/2 in, sold by the foot (toilet ships with 5 ft); hose ends NH-VHE | Kinks, cracks in cold and sun, gets torn on base removal. Wrong diameter will not seal to the flange. | 5 ft + 2 ends |
| Agitator handle | Spider Handle (Spdr-Handle) or Foot Spider Handle (FT-Spd-Handle); the plain crank is no longer sold | Set screw strips, handle snaps; no churn means no composting and a smell. | 1 |
| Coco coir | NH-Coco-9 (9 L) or NH-Coco-35 (35 L); fill to the agitator bar when horizontal, about 1.5 to 2 gal per charge, 60 to 80 uses per charge | Out of coir, out of toilet. | 2 to 3 Γ 9 L per 6 months of weekend use |
| Liquids bottle, cap, seal | Bottle NHBtl (2.2 gal); cap NH-Cap; bottle seal NH-Bottle-Seal | Cracked bottle or lost cap leaks in transit; a hardened seal lets urine odor into the cabin. | 1 bottle, 2 caps, 2 seals |
| Base / bowl seal | NH-Seal | Flattens and cracks; odor bypasses the fan. | 2 |
Check three things in order: the fan (is it spinning, is the fuse good), the base-to-bowl seal, and the liquids bottle seal. A stopped fan is the usual answer; the high-CFM replacement fan assembly is the current factory part.
A 12 V fuse between 2 and 5 amps in an inline holder on the fan lead. Nature's Head sells both (NH-Fuse and NH-FusHous). No fuse is needed if you run it on the wall transformer.
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A urine-diverting composting toilet widely used in cabins and vans: separating liquids and solids keeps odor down and emptying simple.
Researched, not personally tested
Something missing or wrong for your model? Tell me and I will check it and add it. See also the post on building a spare-parts wall and the system planner for sizing the systems themselves.